The most common and most likely answer to this crossword clue is the 10 letter word CRITICISES
I've seen this crossword clue in The Daily Telegraph
C
R
I
T
I
C
I
S
E
S
More clues leading to the result CRITICISES
Buddy explains!

The straight part
We know that "Assesses/pans/roasts" is the straight/definition part of the clue. The straight part is often a synonym or definition, in this case assesses/pans/roasts = criticises.The cryptic/wordplay part
In cryptic crossword there's often an wordplay/cryptic part as well.This part involves a more complex hint, such as an anagram, homophone, hidden word, etc.
Sadly, We don't have an explanation for this specific crossword clue yet.
What does CRITICISES mean?
CRITICISES verb- To find fault (with something).
- To evaluate (something), assessing its merits and faults.