The most common and most likely answer to this crossword clue is the 5 plus 9 letter word STORE DETECTIVE
I've seen this crossword clue in Financial Times
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More clues leading to the result STORE DETECTIVE
Buddy explains!
The straight part
We know that "One who nicks those nicking knickers?" is the straight/definition part of the clue. The straight part is often a synonym or definition, in this case one who nicks those nicking knickers? = store detective.The cryptic/wordplay part
In cryptic crossword there's often an wordplay/cryptic part as well.This part involves a more complex hint, such as an anagram, homophone, hidden word, etc.
Sadly, We don't have an explanation for this specific crossword clue yet.