The most common and most likely answer to this crossword clue is the 9 letter word SPEAKEASY
I've seen this crossword clue in The Guardian
S
P
E
A
K
E
A
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Y
Buddy explains!

The straight part
We know that "where dodgy booze was served" is the straight/definition part of the clue. The straight part is often a synonym or definition, in this case where dodgy booze was served = speakeasy.The cryptic/wordplay part
In cryptic crossword there's often an wordplay/cryptic part as well.This part involves a more complex hint, such as an anagram, homophone, hidden word, etc.
Sadly, We don't have an explanation for this specific crossword clue yet.
What does SPEAKEASY mean?
SPEAKEASY noun- An illegal saloon or tavern, especially one operated during the American Prohibition period in the 1920s.