The most common and most likely answer to this crossword clue is the 11 letter word SHIRTSLEEVE
I've seen this crossword clue in The Times
S
H
I
R
T
S
L
E
E
V
E
More clues leading to the result SHIRTSLEEVE
Buddy explains!

The straight part
We know that "army material?" is the straight/definition part of the clue. The straight part is often a synonym or definition, in this case army material? = shirtsleeve.The cryptic/wordplay part
In cryptic crossword there's often an wordplay/cryptic part as well.This part involves a more complex hint, such as an anagram, homophone, hidden word, etc.
Sadly, We don't have an explanation for this specific crossword clue yet.
What does SHIRTSLEEVE mean?
SHIRTSLEEVE noun- The part of a shirt that covers an arm.