The most common and most likely answer to this crossword clue is the 6 plus 7 letter word SUMMER PUDDING
I've seen this crossword clue in Financial Times
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More clues leading to the result SUMMER PUDDING
Buddy explains!

The straight part
We know that "Winter starter? On the contrary" is the straight/definition part of the clue. The straight part is often a synonym or definition, in this case winter starter? on the contrary = summer pudding.The cryptic/wordplay part
In cryptic crossword there's often an wordplay/cryptic part as well.This part involves a more complex hint, such as an anagram, homophone, hidden word, etc.
Sadly, We don't have an explanation for this specific crossword clue yet.